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Do you care about the planet and everything that’s in it? Your little spot in this world can be a launching pad for the good, healthy environmentally friendly work we do…or it can be the launching pad for non-organic chemicals that poison our planet and last for an extended time in the soil and atmosphere. Organics do the job that they are intended for then dissipate after a much shorter time, thus leaving a much smaller footprint.

Plant Health Organics is the only 100% Organic land care company in Central NJ that does exactly what we do. There are companies that do some of what we do, but not the extent of PHO. Companies, big and small, that apply both Non-Organics and Organics cannot claim that their Organic applications are truly 100% Organic. It is impossible to clean all equipment perfectly, therefore the NON-ORGANIC residue that persists infects the Organic material being applied rendering it now NON-ORGANIC.

When you apply Non-Organic fertilizer, not only are you using synthetic forms of nitrogen(the element that provides the green color), but these Non-Organic forms of fertilizer are quick release therefore they don’t last as long. When you apply Non-Organic fertilizer, it only feeds the grass plant, not the soil, therefore it infiltrates the soil profile MUCH quicker than Organic fertilizer, therefore the lawn needs to be fertilized much more often as it will start to lose its dark green pigment. Organic fertilizer is slow-released. Its components are all derived from natural, organic material including feather meal, poultry meal, bone meal, etc. It feeds the soil. Over time, the soil releases the nutrients slowly, lasting much longer and providing a much longer lasting green pigment.

Most material applied, whether Organic on Non-Organic has an EPA Registration number assigned to it. That number requires the material to be referred to as a Pesticide therefore technically, even Organic “pesticides” have a recommendation that the areas sprayed not be entered or disturbed for 72 hours. Plant Health Organics asks you to at least allow the Organic product to dry before entering the area.

Our tick spray is cedar oil with some mint oil in it at a very small amount. The cheaper tick suppression you may see is organic, but some of the organic ingredients are metals which is not good for our landscapes or environment.

It’s a program of monthly applications employing the practice of IPM (Integrated Pest Management) where we visit your property and visually inspect your shrubs and plantings. While there, we spray ONLY whatever needs to be sprayed. We DO NOT broadcast or blanket spray all over the property. Even with the use of Organics, that’s irresponsible.

The absolute best time to treat for grubs in your lawn is late August into early September. That is when the newly hatched grubs are just below the surface and very small and much easier to kill. The second best time is in late May when once again, the grubs, after a cold winter, have slowly crawled up to just below the surface. They are harder to deal with now though as the grubs are now as large as they can get, just before changing to Japanese Beetles, and will require a higher dose of the organic grub killer. We care because grubs destroy your nice green lawn, eating the roots, but possibly worse, when they emerge in late June as adults, they can skeletonize and defoliate trees and shrubs like Lindens and roses in an instant.

Chinch bugs and sod webworm have proven to be huge issues in lawns, especially these days when dry conditions persist. Applying organics to your lawn in July help suppress these issues.

Scale is a very difficult insect to deal with. Timing is everything in taking care of them. There are two types of scale: Hard body and soft body. In those 2 types, there are many varieties including peach scale, tulip scale, dogwood scale, elongate scale etc. The best time to treat scale is when they are in their crawling stage in late May into June. Applications will smother the crawlers just before they get their “armor”

Organically, we feed and build up the soil profile over time. We do not feed the turf. Over time, that healthy soil will slowly release the nutrients from the fertilizer or amendments that have been applied. Slow release nitrogen is the best way to keep your lawn green and for a much longer time than quick-release, non-organic fertilizer. A soil test performed every 2-3 years will give us the information and recipe for healthy soil. For example, applying lime as many “lawn care” companies do without a soil test is irresponsible because who knows how much the soil actually needs. The soil test will tell us the proper amount.

Pruning should really be done to provide a more naturalistic, loose habit. For example, pruning shrubs like boxwoods and burning bush too tightly and with power sheers rather than with sharp hand sheers and pruners causes a poor growth habit. It makes it almost impossible to get much needed air flow and sunlight to the inner plants. Also, it makes it more inviting for insects and disease to invade the plant, and much harder to spray with pesticides, whether organic or non-organic. Thinning the growth also helps greatly, encouraging new growth.

New companies try to “reel” you in, but in reality, whether organic or non-organic, the cost of fertilizer for that property plus the cost of labor and all overhead completely eclipses that $20. Go elsewhere to a reputable company who is doing the right thing for you and your landscape. For example, some companies won’t actually apply the proper amount of fertilizer your lawn requires, but unless you the customer are “on top” of things and educated to what is being done, you would never know. Full disclosure is responsible and respectful.

Thatch is the accumulation of dead grass, NOT CLIPPINGS, that form a mat at the soil surface that gradually extends down. A certain amount of thatch is GOOD as it holds the grass plant in the ground and allows for stronger roots. Too much thatch is BAD though, not allowing for air and water to infiltrate the surface and get to the roots. Aeration and de-thatching help greatly in reducing the thatch layer and should be done every other year. High nitrogen fertilizer is a cause of high thatch areas.

There is a lot that goes into a business and its pricing for the customers. Insurance is a huge expense as well as fuel and payroll. Having the PROPER INSURANCE is expensive but very important both for the legal aspects and of course for the employees and property. There are many “less expensive” companies out there doing similar work, but they are much cheaper…why? Because they don’t have the required insurance mandated by law.

We certainly do! You can always get a 5% discount on your entire proposal when you prepay for the services with a check. Just talk to Joe.

Nope! You'll be invoiced after each service visit. Payment can be made with check or credit card.

Sure, we'll email your proposal which has a PDF copy as well as a link. If you can't locate the email we have a Customer Portal where you can find all your proposals, invoices and even make requests. All you need is your customer number and email address to create an account. Here's a quick how to:

When you receive an invoice in your email there is always a link provided for online payments. If you can't locate the email we have a Customer Portal where you can find all your proposals, invoices and even make requests. All you need is your customer number and email address to create an account. Here's a quick how to: